With the tiger sharks of Fuvahmulah
The first time I went to Fuvahmulah was this February, the first of two trips I had planned to make in 2024. My purpose? To explore the world’s most populated tiger shark haven and get to know the magnificent creatures of this remote island.
In the past eight years, much had been said about this location at the southern extremes of the Maldives. Previously neglected as a tourist destination, thousands of people now travel to Fuvahmulah annually to dive with this iconic species. I was very curious: it was my turn to give it a try.
Mid-February is the best time of the season in Fuvahmulah, and everything went flawlessly. By the end of the trip, I had done 14 specific tiger shark dives with a group of Italian marine biologists under the direction of Francesca Reinero. They were carrying out laser photogrammetry to measure and identify individuals.
It was of utmost importance for me as a shark conservationist to observe and photograph the tigers first-hand. When I left the island after a week, I had a clear plan to return in October for further observation.
I wanted to watch the interaction of tiger sharks in Fuvahmulah closely, because the same species of shark can behave and act differently in diverse habitats under certain circumstances.
Special permit
Tiger sharks are noted for being aggressive apex predators, second only to great whites in terms of number of recorded attacks on humans. They are naturally very inquisitive, which helps them to discover food sources, but this unfortunately accounts for some of these incidents.
Fuvahmulah hosts an unprecedentedly large aggregation of tiger sharks year-round, with 250 individuals having been identified. It is the ideal spot in the world not just for recreational diving, but also for specific observation and scientific research purposes.
For close interaction and observation, I needed a special permit from the dive-centre. Obtaining it was not easy, because the islanders and centres are naturally concerned about any potential incidents that could jeopardise dive-tourism.
This permit allows for a certain kind of freedom, enabling very close-up encounters with these majestic animals. My trip was mainly about solo-diving with the tiger sharks, separate from a dive-guide, safety diver or recreational divers.
Normally during tiger dives in Fuvahmulah divers are obliged to stay in a group, standing still behind a drop-off to observe the sharks feeding.
Days at the Harbour
On obtaining the necessary freedom, I made a plan with the three dive-guides. Once feeding was completed, I would solo-dive on the sandy bottom at Tiger Harbour (formerly known as Tiger Zoo).
Once the sharks arrived, I would go alone and get closer. For safety, two dive-guides would always cover my back as the shark traffic intensified.
Feeding in Fuvahmulah was done in two ways: hiding tuna-fish scraps under small stones, and chumming from the boat. Both methods were done with respect and, as a rule, on feeding and chumming all dive-guides would retreat from the scene because of the potential danger.
In total I did 12 dives with tiger sharks (26 logged encounters including the February dives) at Tiger Harbour. This horseshoe-shaped site, with a depth of 8-10m, is located just outside the main harbour. The abundance of tiger sharks here makes it a must-visit for any diver.
All the dives were very intense. While the guides next to me were extremely stressed out because of the low probability of an unwanted bite, I felt at ease during every close encounter, thanks to my 15 years of shark-diving experience and, perhaps, good vibes.
Both in February and October, tiger sharks were provisioned daily, year-round, and the aggregation was completely female-dominated. Among the dozens of sharks I observed, only one was male. And most of the females were pregnant.
We know Fuvahmulah provides suitable conditions for gestation, given the year-round provision of food and warm waters.
Before giving birth, tiger sharks prefer shallow coastal habitats for their pups’ safety, though it’s not scientifically known whether they give birth around the island. One thing is sure: for gestation they choose the protected waters of Fuvahmulah.
Perfect apex predators
I also observed some adult female individuals with very deep mating scars on their body. Some females exhibited healed wounds, while others had injuries that were fresh and open.
During the encounters I also frequently noticed that while pregnant sharks were calm, younger individuals were hyper-inquisitive. Youngsters were also quite big, supporting the theory that smaller juveniles probably avoid the area before they reach a certain size to evade the elevated predation (tiger sharks are known cannibals).
A distinct hierarchy among the sharks was obvious. Smaller ones were always yielding the field once they felt the majestic presence of the adults. In instances when I strived for close contact with young ones they preferred to flee suddenly, while adult females were fearless in the same context.
Tiger sharks also exhibit distinct behaviours compared to other species. They minimise energy expenditure and increase their chances of hunting success by sneaking up on unsuspecting prey, avoiding the energy waste of stalking prey that are already aware of them and can escape easily.
This behaviour is equally valid in their interactions with humans. Whenever they noticed that I was gently approaching, they abruptly changed direction and moved away. They never attempted to stalk me when I was fully aware of their presence and looking at them.
Any subtle movement, such as a slow head-turn or a hand-raise, always made them slip away or deviate. This further illustrates why they are the perfect apex predators of stealthy hunting. It was as if they could sense the slightest physical change in the water column from a distance.
Heightened vigilance
On some occasions, I counted more than 10 sharks in the same spot. During certain encounters, some individuals appeared excessively bold and adventurous, forcing me to direct them away with my hands, which required heightened vigilance when they were closer. Safety divers behind me were incessantly pushing away those that approached stealthily.
The best close-contact encounters occurred when the sharks grabbed the tuna scraps (fish heads, guts and so on) placed under small stones by the dive-guides. At this point, they became really fierce.
This was the moment to be particularly wary, as they started heading directly towards me with no hesitation. But usually, once they had had their fill, they would leave the site, slipping gently into the darkness. Others would glide past with a wary eye. Some would carefully approach, inquisitive but cautious.
Like humans, tiger sharks have differing personality traits. Each shark is an individual with its unique preferences and behaviours.
Observing their range of responses in various situations helps one to better interpret and predict how certain types of predators behave around humans.
At no point did I feel threatened, even during extreme close-ups. In most cases, I was actually at their mercy, but not a single bite attempt occurred. Tiger sharks are highly intelligent, and I never believed we were on the menu.
Even though it is considered the world’s largest-known aggregation of tigers, with more than 250 individuals, the waters of this remote island are safe and fun to dive.
After logging those 26 dives in two seasons within the same year, and talking to resident marine biologists, local guides and fishermen, I believe this large aggregation and low probability of aggression is likely due to the low-effort food sources, feedings by fishermen and dive-centres, the abundance of tuna (Thunnus albacares and Katsuwonus pelamis) and other pelagic fish species, and the sense of protection provided by Fuvahmulah’s waters.
Even though it is known that tiger sharks can migrate vast distances (over thousands of kilometres), scientific data shows clear site-fidelity in adults and residency in juveniles.
Big Mama
A very interesting anecdote: a famous female adult shark called Big Mama was spotted in the surrounding waters of the capital, Malé. After staying there for a week, she returned to Fuvahmulah. This happened ten days before I arrived. I think this outlines the overall picture of natural tiger shark population dynamics here.
In Fuvahmulah, you might encounter tiger sharks on every dive because they are literally everywhere, even in remote dive-sites. Despite being considered apex predators and stealthy hunters, no incidents have been recorded in the waters of Fuvahmulah. This is mostly due to factors such as prey choice, habitat use and activity levels.
Divers, non-divers, freedivers and even snorkellers enjoy the presence of these magnificent animals without fear. They are really calm and easy-going creatures.
On all dives I was accompanied by an enthusiastic group of dive-guides: Safdhar, Izzu and Asfhag, from the Fuvahmulah Scuba Club. The dive-centre provided exceptional support and assistance at every stage, both under and above water. They ensured safe and comprehensive encounters without compromising essential diving protocols.
This well-prepared dive-centre boasts six dive-guides, two big boats, a cosy dive-centre and a hotel.
Not many years ago, there was only one dive-centre and three hotels. Now, there are 11 centres and more than 30 hotels.
Fuvahmulah is booming as a new diving destination around the world, with its rich waters teeming not only with tiger sharks but also with other pelagic species such as scalloped hammerhead, thresher and whale sharks, oceanic manta rays and melon-headed whales.
By the way, Netflix is very interested in this remote paradise and planes to shoot a new reality show there in June 2025.